25 January 2012

Tasmania Waters

First trip of 2012.

It had been 3 years since I was last in Australia's bastard state, 3 years too long really. Both this time round and the last were both under a very similar premise. That was; as a way to get motivated to come back from injury. Both times however I have found it difficult to climb there. Probably more to do with my lack of technique than actually being fresh off the reserve's bench.

I flew down with Ash Hendy and promptly made our way to Freycinet National Park, planning on climbing at The Star Factory. A slightly overhanging orange granite wall, positioned above postcard bay. What a venue. After some awesome weather on day 1 we ended up having to bail early due to a Northerly blowing salt water all over the cliff. Amazing to witness the process of cloud formation right in front of us, but disappointing we walked an hour in only to find the rock saturated.

I had heard of an area down south near Port Arthur that could be good this time of year, if the swells weren't too high. This was confirmed by (Simon) Young Gun via text. So off we shot, hitting the Mt Brown walking track the next morning. The Paradiso was our objective, with promised overhanging dolorite right on the Tasman Sea. The climbing here was fun, sort of juggy sidepull action, and somewhat pumpy. Some of the routes up the middle were about 30m long.

We decided to climb 3 days on due to a shitty forecast, yet this proved to be more like half days due to getting to the crag around 3pm. We managed to get up a few routes all the same.

Highlights;

Ash - Retrograde Amnesia, 26
Me - Captain Jack, 29/30 (whatever that means - I'll take 29)

Andy Richardson put up Captain Jack in 2010. It is super cool but very atypitcal for the crag with sharp crimps and a flat blocked boulder crux. I'm stoked to do it as it was completly wet and subsequently chalk (beta) free when we arrived. It took me 2 attempts to figure out how to clip the 3rd draw without killing Ash or hitting the ground - basically just had to hold the sharpest hold a bit longer. Then a further attempt to figure out the crazy roof. I tried everything to avoid the kneebar but alas I succumbed, like an Ol' Seadog to the Siren's song. Eh, anyway it went next shot.

Wrap up - Awesome week away, yet it wasn't long enough. Next time will be for a month, with a rack next time.

Psyched to get to the Gramps though!!

-Grosey

Here's a short iPhone/shoe video of Capt. Jack.






Ash @ Bluestone Bay - Day 1









Sleepy Bay - View from SF Approach






The Paradiso, Mt Brown Area








Me getting a little close




Fat thing with stool up her arse.

08 January 2012

Bring On 2012

Well its that time of the year again when people start jogging around the block, give up the booze, try to eat better or give up smoking. It is the time of new beginnings and turning the other cheek. Or is it another leaf?? You know I'm terrible with that sort of thing. We all know people who perform this almost religious ritual every year, however how many resolutions actually are maintained? Probably not many.

Another annual event that that usually ends in disappointment for most is NYE celebrations. Hype and expectation inevitably ends in early nights at home, ridiculous crowds of intoxicated heroes, or some lame house party hosted by a friend 4 times removed. For this reason Al and I decided to put on a NYE bash at Mt Arapiles. It had been 3 years since our last and about time we hit it up again. We had some expectations and we definitely had the hype (Horsham checkout chicks were talking it up), yet where others failed we totally kicked arse. As you are probably aware, we like to dress up. Not always in dresses mind you. We needed a theme. Something that would inspire some shocking outfits while promoting an inclusive feel to the party. 1980's - the decade with probably the best 'Shit to Hit' ratio regarding music and fashion became the theme. With some help from the crew, the shelter was turned into a retro 80's night club, complete with decor, lights and visual projections including Monkey Magic and Jim Henson's the Storyteller. Awesome. As a surprise Al and I decided to have a best dressed trophy awarded - it was put to the vote, and our very own Philby came away with a win. To an adoring crowd, Phil managed to do a knee slide down the concrete ramp and then do a strip show. Nice one mate, pity about your grazed up old man knees the next day.

So after a bloody awesome night of some retro hip hop, alternative and electro we welcomed 2o12 with sunrise in the wheat fields - no better way I tell you. Hell followed as we had to endure a 42 degree day in the Wimmera. Most of it was spent lying about at Al's place in Nati, then the afternoon cooling off at Horsham pool with the crew. All in all, a wicked night.





Phil, Alicia, Ash, Al and myself pre NYE. Photos - Nina Ginsberg



First sunrise of 2012



Being on leave and about 4.5 months post injury (A4 rupture) I took the opportunity to hang about for a week with Al at his new abode in Natimuk. A great week it was, living the cruisey country lifestyle. Although it was stinking hot we got some climbing, bmx riding and fishing in. Highlight was catching a rainbow trout by the tail haha gold - tasted great!!! I also spent a few days teaching Jasmin the ropes, as she'd never climbed outdoors before. It was a good way to get back into climbing, by doing some enjoyable easier routes that I had done perhaps 9 years ago. On our last day of the trip, Jaz and I meandered up the 5 pitches of The Bard grade 12. Later that afternoon Al came out and belayed me on Break and Enter on the back of Uncle Charlies. A cool fridge slapping problem, perfect for a hot summer's day. Topping out on this route was a great finish to wicked day and an awesome week. According to Al and Phil it also means I'm officially back off the bench, and an encouraging return at that.



Jasmin on The Bard traverse





Psyched for the warm-up, Spasm in a Chasm 25




As for New Year resolutions, I'm not a believer however this year I am looking forward to several things. Climbing well and injury free, roadtrips locally and abroad but I mostly look forward to hanging out with great mates and enjoying the little things in life. Happy new year everyone and crank hard.

- Grosey