I've been getting out most weekends with the usual partners in crime in Josh, Phil, Slowpoke and the Scotch Finger (Andy; see video). Sadly, Andy left our sunny land for a return to depressing Scotland about a month ago. He will be missed. I think out of the last 6 weeks, I've spent 5 out on the rock, just getting out there and mostly climbing things without success. Its funny though, because I haven't been getting too hung up on ticking things. I've just been having a blast getting out on the rock, lapping up the sunshine (yes, thats right SUNSHINE!! The weather has been fucking fantastic this winter on the weekends!) and hanging out with my mates.
There are a couple of noteworthy problems to blog about. 1st is my awesome project at the new secret area of 36 Chambers. Phil put up an awesome steep problem called Compression Session that goes at about V7. But theres a RAD extension start lower down and left of the current one. This thing adds about 5 moves into the original problem, and I think will be the hardest thing I've done when it goes. There are 2 crux moves, and after 2 days on it, have stuck the first one a few times, and the second one a few more. I'm yet to link the two together though! So hard, but so good!
2nd is my little epic with Gripmaster. Man this this is beating me down!!! If you watch the video of Lee doing it that I posted, where he falls at the top before doing it..... I've fallen about 6 or 7 times the last 2 days I've tried it. But it's so close, and all I need is that one moment where everything comes together perfectly and I'll send it.
I've been taking my sisters camera out with me and when I remember about it, we turn it on and try to film some of the shenanigans. I finally got my ass into gear, somehow found some spare hours in my day, and edited a few videos for you all to enjoy.
And lastly, a quick shout out to mighty Dave Pearson, who's been living in his van in the Gramps for the last 4 months documenting with great effort, all of the boulder problems around Stapylton for a bouldering guide book he's releasing with Chris Webb-Parsons. These 2 chaps from up north have been up to no good, downgrading all our testpieces and writing up all 1600 chosspile problems in the Gramps. I think this may all just be an effort to herd visiting Euros south, and keep them from discovering all the soft ticks up in Sydney! All jokes aside, when you people out there see this guide, you will shit yourself with excitement! Get the hype machine rolling chumps! This thing is the best guide guide book I've ever seen, and if it doesn't get all the "climbers" in Melbourne out onto the rock,
then I don't know what will.
Here's a rad photo Josh took last weekend of me on Towering Inferno. Its a Saunders highball V4 at Legoland. The most terrifing/exhilarating experience I've had climbing for quite a long time.
Psytrance = RAD. Blue, furry shorts are hawt. That is all.
TheBigAl
