Reality hits home.

I’ve been home over a month now. And I have been having my ups and downs. Mundane “purpose of life” type stuff. On returning home, I have come across several questions:
- How was your trip?
- What are your plans now?
- What is it like being home?

How do you have small talk over such questions? “Trip was good. Don’t have plans. Being home is nice”. But really, there is so much mumbo jumbo going on in my head right now!

I had grand plans for when I would return. I would settle in for a week or so. Do some easy routes. Then I would activate crush mode, crushing everything in the Grampians and Arapiles. In addition to being turbo, I would be earning huge wads of cash through some unknown brilliant scheme- saving for my next massive road trip. I would be so happy! Climbing in perfect crisp conditions. Earning tonnes of money. Seeing my friends. Sleeping in my own bed.

Ah. But alas, this was not the case.

Job was nothing. I still have not discovered how to find a job flexible enough for me to climb when I want. Long story short- I got on the dole. Or “Newstart Allowance” would be its politically correct name. Very depressing moment in my life, queuing up in the line at Centrelink. But, yay! Money while looking for jobs, which I was going to do anyway. Not without attending half a dozen interviews and filling out a whole trees worth of forms first though.

Seems like I lucked out on the job hunting last week. One of my best friends from University quit her job, and her replacement broke his foot! Bad for him, good for me! Temporary, casual job doing Exercise Rehab! Amazing. Only a couple hundred hours more and I will become an Accredited Exercise Physiologist. Now doesn’t that sound fancy compared to a dole bludger! Hopefully it can lead into a more permanent position. The work is interesting (most of the time), super close to my house, and everyone is lovely! It’s nice to have money put in my bank account for the first time in 14 months. Stress relief.

As for climbing. That has not been so good. I feel a bit tired. And my motivation fluctuates immensely from day to day. Sometimes I am so psyched I could burst from every orifice of my body! I think about climbing all day and my hands get all sweaty and my tummy gets all tingly! I have moments where I scare myself as to how obsessive this hobby is for me, and I think I should get something else in my life for balance. I just can’t help how much I love it. But then, after last weekend I was done. The more I thought about climbing, the more I beat myself up over how I am not satisfied with my climbing at the moment. Not technical enough. Not strong enough. Not fit enough. Bad headspace. Haven’t climbed or bouldered anything in over a month. Fail.

But then my sensible self (and KP) says- “Don’t worry. It will come”. I have started work so haven’t got out much. And I have had pretty terrible weather conditions (6 out of 7 wet days) at the Gramps (KP says I have become a conditions snob). People in Melbourne work so I have less partner options. I have had a cold on and off since returning (which makes me think I might need a break). And, reality is, I am not on a climbing trip anymore and I need to suck it up. Change my expectations. Make the most of the time I have....and go to the Blue Mountains for two weeks! Psyched!

So I am off tomorrow for two weeks of crimping on razors (so I’ve heard, I’ve never been). Let’s see if I can get one route done! If not, I am pretty sure I will successfully have a good time drinking coffee and wine with my friend, Helen, who left me in Melbourne, what seems like a lifetime ago. Oh, and my imaginary friend flies back to Australia tomorrow. After successfully selling our Renault Kangoo (so sad!) he is on a four day epic journey home. Exciting stuff! Looking forward to two weeks of regaining confidence on rock, and more importantly, enjoying life!

I managed to unsuccessfully blog about Christmas in Poland, Fontainebleau, Switzerland and Round Two of Spain, but oh well. It was all AWESOME. How’s that for being succinct.

Quote of last weekend:
“Take that” KP while falling on Spankin’ the Monkey Bars at Kindergarden.

Dre.

My new life as a home renovator.

Roo at Stapylton.

Sunset from Centinal Cave.

KP in awe of the light on Centinal Cave.

Temper Tantrums

It must have been about this time last year that Joshy put Academia (31) to bed... The tick though, wasnt without It's dramas including a couple of falls from the final easy moves... Now I wasnt there there to witness the result of these gaylords, but I have it on good authority that it looked something like this...

Enjoy.

Coffee, Beer, Masterchef, Foosball, UFC, Sleep overs, and a little bit of bouldering

Ok, so this is a little late, but I've finally found the time and concentration ability to write a blog report. So, first thing first, some of you haven't heard from me for a while. Up until about 2 months ago, I was suffering from 50hr work weeks, very little sleep, and no climbing due to a chronic back injury that had me out of action since october last year. But things are now back on track and I've been quickly regaining some form, getting out on the boulders and having a good time.

A big weekend of action was had Queens birthday long weekend, where a whole crew crashed Arnies pad in Ararat for the the 3 day. Up to 10 people made themselves welcome to Simons hospitality, eating his food, drinking his coffee and wine, and respectfully throwing games of foosball to boost his already belated ego! It was also Joshs' birthday on the Saturday, so many drinks were had on the Friday night.

The Saturday found us in Andersons mucking about. Simon and the Raven both did Mexican Delight V9 quickly, and did Josh for the 3rd or 4th time. I still struggled. Philby put up a new problem he dubbed Hot Mama Vibes V6 which Raven and I flashed. It was hard enough for Simon to need a few attempts, while Joshy boy failed to haul himself up it, proclaiming once again that 'bouldering is shit'. Phil also smashed out Gasoline V8 later that day, while Josh and I (again, for the umpteenth time) fell off the top of Gripmaster V10.














Left: Pete 'The Raven' flashing Hot Mama Vibes V6.









Sunday was a late start of coffee and watching guys smash one another in the UFC. The highlight was Dan Henderson 'shutting up' Brit Michael Bisping in brutal style.




Later we headed to Hollow Mtn Cave where it was probably about 12:30pm before we started climbing. Josh and I tried American Pie V10 both with not much success. Joshy fell off the last moves of Ogre Thumb V9 and we both got fell off the end of The Devils Councilor V7. Not a good day for us.


















Right: Alister knee scumming to no avail on The Devils Coulcilor V7.








Monday a slightly smaller crew head out in search of new boulders around Halls Gap. Pointed in the direction of an area dubbed 'Valley Of The Gods' we found ourselves in a jumble of house sized boulders of top quality. Warming up on some of the sweet highball faces, I went in search of some steeper lines. The 2 awesome bulges I found, brushed and and chalked quite quickly became too hard, and the more experienced duo of Simon and The Raven were called in. Simon sent them both, first with Village Of The Damned V9 and then unleashing the Old Man Power on Valley Of The Wads V11. Very impressive FA's.








Left: Arnie on the FA of Valley Of The Wads V11









Then it was time to high tail it back to Melbourne, stopping in Halls Gap for hot dogs and milkshakes, a quick play on the swing set, chasing butterflys, and a sad farewell to our man Omar, who was on a plane the next day back to work in WA for the next few months.

So a great weekend, hanging out with mates, having a laugh, a bit of climbing and heaps of fun.





Oh, and Arnie and I were both in agreeance while watching Masterchef on the Sunday night that it was hardly worth watching since Fiona got knocked out. She's smart (she has to be as a teacher), is hot, and can obioulsy cook! I want me one!






- TheBigAl

Comp kids

The Vic state titles were held on the weekend at bayside rock. Alby & Dre flew the flag for the a-team with dre coming out on top in the womens open and the big al finishing a very respectable 5th in the mens. Top work kids.

I was helping out with the setting, testing & grading on Friday, in preperation for the comp. Check out the time lapse of the gym being re-created for the comp.

Bayside Boulder Bash Setting from James Kassay on Vimeo.

Reunion

Howdy people,

As i'm sure you have noticed, it's been pretty quiet on the captains blog of late, but we do have an excuse. We have all been quite busy putting together a little short film, a hstorical doco of sorts which we hope will give you a bit of an idea of what the A-team got up to before we discovered the joys of climbing. The vid is below, hope you enjoy...



On the upside, now that our little side project is finished we are back and keen as! Last weekend Alby, Dre & I headed to the gramps to hit up the blocs. The weather was primo with tickage all round. We started at the snakepit on the classic Waiting in the Air (V7), super fun double dyno to a huge jug with a big fly if you miss the target hold. After a quick easy send, Alby jumped on again so I could get some pics and almost ate shit when his hand stared to slide of the jug... Thankfully he stuck it. Then we all got smashed on the hardest V6 in the world "Attack of the killer drop bears'.

Alby & Dre on waiting in the air (The look on Dre's face in classic!!)





Off to the Kindy, Alby & Dre smashed a quick send of the soft Hairbo Boulder (V7/9) which is a fun little two mover. I sent Spanking the Monkey Bars direct (V8), dre sorted the moves on the original bars and Alby made some great progress on 'So you think you can dance' (V12), watch this space as I reckon he will send soon.

Dre on Hairbo Boulder (V7/9)


Sunday was spent at Andersens knockin off a few classics and some of the toughest V4's going around. Alby sent a great looking highball 'The great discovery' (V7) and Dre pulled out all the stops to finally send the hardest V4 in the universe. A quick flash of Rise of the Machines (V7) for Dre to round out the day topped off a pretty successfull weekend.

Dre on Golden Oldie (V4)


Dre on Golden Oldie (V4)


Dre on Rodeo Girl (V8)