A poke in the eye, a kick in the shins.

To say that success in sport has a lot to do with ones mental state is, well, and understatement. For years we've heard all the sporting cliches from a range of athletes. Footy players, '...oh, you know, right now I'm just out on the paddock, having fun playing footy again' after racking up 40+ touches in a best on field appearance; cricket players, 'I'm just concentrating on putting bat to ball...' in a match winning innings post media scandal; or as The Legend Ricky Bobby once put it so eloquently.... "I wanna go FAST!"

The point being, that when our minds wander to places of negativity, frustration or self criticism, many times this mental pressure gets the better of our physical selves. Likewise, an attitude at the opposite side of the spectrum, one of fun, joy, confidence and giddy school-boy eagerness can bring about physical excellence not expected. Like the well regurgitated remarks of the aforementioned footy or cricket player, a change in mental tact in periods of disappointing performance leads to a glorious return to match winning form. Parades are held, confetti rains from the sky, you're given the key to the city and perhaps kiss a baby....

This isn't breaking news folks. You know this. I know you know this. You know I know you know this. Know how I know? Ever said a word so often it looses all meaning?.......

Back the to point of this whole thing. After riding a high upon sending Groovy a while back, I became bogged down again. I fell off the last move on Wagalak. I then locked myself away to study for a couple of weeks during mid semester exams. I forced myself to get out of the house a few times during this academic period and trained. Now I'm not the most motivated climber when it comes to training. Unless socialising or drinking beer is considered training...... I find training uninteresting. But Joshy's infectious penchant for systematic training began to wear off on me, and I found myself repeatedly down at Burnley running laps and generally making myself feel like I was going to puke. I was actually enjoying it!?

Armed with some new found confidence and a wee bit of strength improvement, I busted back out to Nati over the weekend where I met up with Chris and Alyssa for a day in Yesterday Gully. Now, maybe fatigue from a long day at uni and a long train ride to Horsham the day before had something to do with it, but to be honest it was more likely my incompetence at doing battle with slick Arapiles cracks. I got worked that day. Man did I get worked! Alyssa was hiking Yesterday like it was 16! She made it look effortless. I made it look like possum road kill. No elegance. No panache. No golf clap performance. I'm pretty sure I resembled a fat person on roller blades, the way I was huffing and skating about as I thrashed my way up it without success.

Confidence = Shot.

A spur of the moment decision the next day saw a small posse of us tramping around southern Grampians in search of boulders. Oh yes, the good old boulders. Finally the weather had cooled enough for some bouldering action. Brendan, Chris' brother, who also live in Nati, has been putting up new problems in the area for years and years. Yonks, you could say. It was just what I needed. Some success pulling some moves again. Gettin' to the top of something. Like "havin' fun kick'n the footy 'round" We did a couple of Brendans problems and put up some new ones. A day of no expectations. No pressure to perform. Just climbing with mates.

So in the space of 48hours I'd done a complete 180 turn in psyche. I was pumped now to get back on Overtaker!

But oh no folks, the story doesn't end here. Not by a long shot. There's still another twist in this rambling fairytale.....

Fucking Arapiles cracks!!!

I got worked. Again. On the warmup. A crack. A SHORT crack. Fuck. It was in the sun, I was sweaty, shakey and hotty. But I got up it. Oh dear. Chris to the rescue!

"Don't worry buddy, its fine. I remember getting a little worried on it too". "They're tricky little numbers these slippery cracks". "You climbed fine mate! Didn't look shakey at all!". God bless Chris and his constant injections of positive laser energy. He even mentioned that we don't have to climb today, and he'd but just as happy to watch a DVD today. I almost took him up on that.

Ok I'm sure you're getting bored now, but the point is very close. Stick with us here. If you're at work reading this, coffee break is coming up real soon, I promise :)

It's hard to disappoint Chris. So I just rapped down to route to 'have a squiz at it'. "If it felt all right, I might have a crack, while I'm here" I thought. This was day 4 trying the route since before Christmas. But I was so close to doing it last time. I didn't want to go backwards. No-one wants to go backwards. Do you know why the emu and kangaroo are on our coat of arms, besides being native animals? Neither can walk backwards.

Be like the coat of arms Alister. 

Forwards progress.

I remember rapping over the edge feeling like crap. Tired and sore. By the time I got off the rope I was grinning from ear to ear, anxiously rehashing the beta. Conditions were P-E-R-F-E-C-T! Even though it was a warmish day, the wall was in the shade. The rock was cold and bone dry. Perfect. Its funny how this one little factor completely outside of my control flipped my mindset from depressed to excited. Chris noted that he could see, as soon as I started chalking the holds and ticking up footers, I was a changed man.

I ended up doing the route. I fell 3 times on the last move of the crux before finally getting it though. Still, waves of doubt and anxiety would flood my head. Every time I would have a little sook. In the end, physically, I did the route quiet easily. But it was my mental game that continued to threaten success on the day. I'm not one for the whole visualise success thing. Or mental training for climbing. But its pretty obvious that mental controls physical, emotion controls muscle. And for each person, dealing with this up and down wave will be different. Being aware of it though is half the battle won.

I rode the wild emotional roller coaster that weekend, peaking, and plummeting.

I can't wait to do it again.

-TheBigAl

Photos

Josh has leant me his old digital camera. The last shots I took on his new camera were a little "off" shall we say. I'm not allowed nice things anymore....Its a 20D. Fixed 50mm lens. Goes down to 1.8 aperature. Thats technical stuff. Yep, I'm totally pro now. These are the results of the first time using it.

Alyssa on Yesterday

Gordy trying his link-up project in Yesterday Gully

Chris on a new problem of mine

Brendan vying for the FA of this spicy number

Chris won in the end....

Philby walks the Yin

Breaking news........

This Morning approx 1 hour ago, Philby 'little hands' Neville has within a week of his 30th birthday, crushed Path of Yin - 30, at arguably the best crag in the southern hemisphere, certainly in the Grampians, Muline.

This is Phil's first 30 and what a route to debut with. Bouldery fridge to get off the ground, steep sluggy roof reminiscent of french baguettes stuck to a ceiling and a 'Heartbreak High' style finish - sometimes hard to watch.

Although I don't believe ticking a 30 before the age of 30 was a true motivator, I had heard Phil mention it before. I guess with week to go the pressure was on - diamonds need a lot of pressure to be formed right? A midweek ANZAC Day special was in order and I only wish I had braved the inclement weather and driven up there for some photos. Alas, a google search has offered up some of its finest "Path of Yin" shots.

Path of Yin under redlights

Path of 2 fat Twins

Path of Yin Steepness. Blue represents the rope - including lower off

Computer generated image of Phil on his 31st Birthday

As we can see, Phil is aging rather rapidly. Lets all hope that he can continue to climb harder than his age, and even as I predict, get in front. Cause thats the secret to the fountain of youth right, climbing hard??

- Grosey

Easter Wrap Up

Ah yes, Easter. That good old Christian holiday. Some use it celebrate the resurrection of Christ. Others just get horribly drunk for 4 days. Some of us though, go climbing.

Easter is that time of year on the climbing calendar that sees the hordes appear. Baddie traddie types, group abseilers, boulderers, dirtbaggers, slackliners(!?), families, mates, kiddies, the lot.

For Arapiles especially, it's a pretty chaotic time. Fortunately for me, I am still semi located in Natimuk. No crowded campsites. No clanging of hexes in the morning. Bliss!

This Easter I got to team up with some old partners in crime, Scotty Clarke and Chris Trapnell, along with Joshy and Ash. Along with dropin's by Arnie, Scoots, Timmy Le, Papa Al and The Crowe sisters, (the last few you may not know but are pretty tops in my book!)

Scotty Clarke!

Klop at home with the crew

Climbing wise its was a pretty good trip. Joshy knocked off a couple of sweet 29's (Wagalak and Jetlag) and Trappers and Ash smashed out Have A Good Flight (25) in impressive fashion. Ash took it down on her second day as a warmup, and Trappers clipped the chains 5 minutes before he took off to pack up camp and drive 4 hours back to Melbourne, to catch a flight to Brisbane that evening.

Scotty and I spent a few days on Wagalak. I came within a hold of sending that puppy but tore a hole in my finger.....over rover. Scotty was not far behind either.

Trappers on Spasm in a Chasm (25)

Me about to rip a hole in my pinkie on Wagalak. 

And here it is....

Bigger news though was Easter = GOATFEST!

Chapel Street South Melbourne or Main Street Natimuk?

Goatfest is the annual Natimuk film festival, and this was the first one I got to attend. It was a bit cool too going as a 'local'. With a packed out crowd in the Memorial Hall, curry slops, and a cold beer, we settled in for a night of entertainment. Plenty of great videos, from locals to internationals. Even old mate S. Weill had a video.....

Simons Video

First up it goes without saying that the Nati crew who organises this every year do a fantastic job. I wont start rattling off names because its a huge team effort and on a whole they should be thanked and recognised.

Secondly, I suupose a congratulations is order for Simon, who managed to take out both the Viewers and Judges choice awards. Both bloody awards! As if he didn't need something else to hold over the rest of us! But his video was definitely a crowd favourite, and had a different flavour, lets say, to the rest of the videos. So big up to Simon!

The winner and Scootsy enjoying la cafe

Just faking interest in Simons gloating.

But it is getting exciting at the moment! Josh is about 3 weeks away from his move out west to start a 2 month stint as a country paramedic and I'm plugging away trying to work out how I can re-work uni to allow me more time in Nati. I've been locked down the last 10 days knocking off reports, assignment, and mid semester exams. Josh and I have had a couple of epic training sessions, which for reasons I am yet unsure of, has spurred on some motivation to CONTINUE training on my part. Who'da thunk it!?

The last weeks hideout

So thats about it for the moment. I'm sitting here typing and watching the Slovenia bouldering comp. On a Saturday night. Sad I know..... But next weekend its back out to Nati, get some climbing in, maybe even bolt something :D I'll keep you posted on that one ;)

Not a bad drop....

-TheBigAl

Goings on.

OK guys its been a month since my last update, and well, that's because not a huge amount has happened other then Uni. For the first few weeks of classes I hunkered down in Melbourne getting to grips with a return to the learned life. Chemistry is the game, and even for someone like me who likes it, it can feel like quite a drain.

I've been making the trip back and forth between Nati and M-town for the last couple of weeks, luckily accompanied by fellow westie (Horsham born) Chris Abernethy for the trips most weeks. So far the travel is going well, with 3-4 days a week in Nati just keeping the raging country bumpkin inside of me at bay......just......

The weather is finally coming good, ie; getting colder. Projects are already starting to back up. I had a couple of goes on Joshs' as yet unrepeated Substance D (29) at Little Hands, turning his wild, crux dyno chuck into a three move techo-fest. Haven't been back as yet, but will soon to hopefully knock that one off. Destined to be a classic! Arnie and Matt Adams were there also, and along with Josh, the crag looked and sounded like an add for Red Chili! Josh made great progress on his Afro Warrior project, having a Real Thing flashback "That's a personal best" moment. Simon chucked a great little tanty when he fell off the crux of Steal on Steal (28), repeatedly. Matt complained he was pumped in ALL his arms. I was mad fun of because of my retarded attempt at climbing on the warm-up and the shitty rubber on my Scarpas.....just another day at the office/crag.

The next day Joshy and I headed up to the Gallery with the masses. He was keen to get back on Le Petit Mort (29) while I was just keen to get a bit pumped! Mission accomplished. I had a crack at Shadow Death (28) which is a rad link-up of Chasing the Shadow into the end of Le Petit Mort. I managed to climb to the point where Shadow breaks left and Death continues on before hitting the wall. So another route to add to the list of close ones.

I went back to a route I tried with Arnie last year called The Overtaker (29) at Araps with Abernethy, and after a couple of days he managed to smash out the send, while I came frustratingly close, falling at the end of the crux, then going to the top, before giving up with bruised tips. The list just gets longer.

Crux lock on The Overtaker. (Photo: Alysaa Bond)

End of the crux section of The Overtaker. (Photo: Alyssa Bond)

Chris and I also had a few shots each on Groovy (28) a couple of weeks back, both coming very close to funking our way up the route. Happy to say I finally got a win and knocked it off this weekend passed, as did Chris. This was a pretty special route for me because it was one I'd underlined in my guidebook for a good 10 years ago. I've spent very little time on Taipan over my life of climbing, but Groovy was always one that stuck in my mind as a must do, and it was a very pleasing moment clipping the chains on it. Although I did make things a wee bit exciting having a bit of a un-planned slip and cut loose moment looking at the anchors!

PhD student Ashlee-Trevor-Bendy-Hendy huffed her way up the classic Invisible Fist (26) that day too, while Josh just ran laps on routes like The Invisible Fist and Tyranny. 

News of others in the Melbourne climbing scene comes across the desk here at the A-Team HQ from time to time too. The silent Daddy Daytrippers crusher club of Sam Morely and Scott Clarke have been proving that having a kid is no excuse to getting weak. We hear that Sam knocked off So You Think You Can Dance (V11) and Academia (31) during day trips snuck in between fatherly duties, with partner in crime Scotty nabbing Tyranny (29) and Fabios Route (29), as well as Gripmaster (V10) in similar style. 

Nick Sutter finally put his Little Hands Cave project to rest producing Strontium Dogs (31).

And as you saw below, Philby smashed out Koala (29) under the noses of the rest of us. Sneaky pal!

So what else has been happening???? Ive been back out at the lake fishing over the weekend, but to no avail. Although I think I would hesitate at eating any trout of the lake, considering the sea of algae still present! Gareth is back from WA and now a full time, unemployed climber. Great to have someone else around to talk to now.

I'm back in Melbourne for a few days of school then back out west way Wednesday night. Picking up Scoots from the airport and delivering him to Arnies Acres in Moyston. 

Easter is upon us, and so is a couple of very hot days from the looks of the weather report. So once they pass (with study being the most likely alternative to climbing) its back out there with everyone enjoying the best climbing west of Horsham!!

More to report after easter!

Having a crack at The Eye of the Tiger, 4 days after an epic 5 day music festival.
Not very wise.....

An evening of fishing at Nati Lake with Mars and Brendan.

-TheBigAl

Koala (29), Gallery, Grampians

A little video of me sending Koala thanks to Flash. Red duck on belay.

Autumn is on the way

Hey Gang,

Well as you've read in Al's post, it has been crazy hot down here. For us city dwellers climbing has been limited. After having most of January off (see Tasmania post) it has been difficult being back at work and only getting the occasional weekend off. Although those few and far between days are basically sweatbox, sauna torture, they have been great fun.

I can finally report on some news I've had since Christmas, although many of you may already know. I have recently joined the Expedition Equipment Team, representing Red Chili, Wild Country and Prana. I'm very excited about this opportunity. If you're on facebook, you probably have already seen the link to their page I sent you. Jump on it, cause you can read news, reports and stay in touch with new gear thats coming in. Otherwise it's here, www.expeditonequipment.com.au

Not much to report in terms of tickage, but I've jumped on a few things of late I've been eyeing off.

Firstly, I jumped on Le Petite Mort, 29ish at the Gallery. Is 'ish' now as an undercling that was used for clipping and initiating the crux sequence was rudely busted off by Hank the Yank some years ago. I worked out a new way of entering the crux, however was thwarted by the tropical conditions and blew a fuse. Sutter is the only one I know who's done it since the hold broke, and agrees it adds some curry.

Secondly, I have worked out all the moves on a project of mine dubbed Afro Warrior at Little Hands. This is a rising traverse that enters the crux of my Substance D, 29 but from the wrong side. Basically a 4 move V6? at the end of a 18m roof traverse. Quick, call an Ambulance cause this thing will be fully sick!

Spent another couple of hot days at Muline with Arnie and some other locals. I didn't do much climbing there because the routes I want to try are in the sun most of the day at this time of year. I did however lug my new camera kit up and did a test shoot of Arnie on Middle Path, 28. This was aimed at getting to know my new kit (7D and Tokina 11-16mm f2.8). This rough cut diamond is just that 'rough' and for good reason. I'll prepared and out of time, shooting it in the 30 mins we should have been already on the road back to Melbourne. Hopefully its the start of more to come, video that is. Lots of ideas - just have to learn how to edit and make things nicer.



Oh, almost forgot. The annual Bayside Boulder Bash was on last weekend. Good to have some new fully rad (long and pumpy) problems in the gym. I had a shitter and without devulging to much information, what happened was a long time coming and my awareness of it now as prompted me to seek professional help. This, while in some ways very difficult for me can only be a good and positive thing for my climbing. That said, there were some really strong performances. The little man from Sheffield, Tom Haigh took out the win with some really impressive flashes. Well done mate.

Anyway, I'm heading up this weekend for a couple days with the intention of filming some routes at Little Hands and of course having a crack at Afro Warrior (watch this space). \

Righteo. Enjoy the weekend peeps

- Grosey.