Captains of Crush: Tasmania Waters

First trip of 2012.

It had been 3 years since I was last in Australia's bastard state, 3 years too long really. Both this time round and the last were both under a very similar premise. That was; as a way to get motivated to come back from injury. Both times however I have found it difficult to climb there. Probably more to do with my lack of technique than actually being fresh off the reserve's bench.

I flew down with Ash Hendy and promptly made our way to Freycinet National Park, planning on climbing at The Star Factory. A slightly overhanging orange granite wall, positioned above postcard bay. What a venue. After some awesome weather on day 1 we ended up having to bail early due to a Northerly blowing salt water all over the cliff. Amazing to witness the process of cloud formation right in front of us, but disappointing we walked an hour in only to find the rock saturated.

I had heard of an area down south near Port Arthur that could be good this time of year, if the swells weren't too high. This was confirmed by (Simon) Young Gun via text. So off we shot, hitting the Mt Brown walking track the next morning. The Paradiso was our objective, with promised overhanging dolorite right on the Tasman Sea. The climbing here was fun, sort of juggy sidepull action, and somewhat pumpy. Some of the routes up the middle were about 30m long.

We decided to climb 3 days on due to a shitty forecast, yet this proved to be more like half days due to getting to the crag around 3pm. We managed to get up a few routes all the same.

Highlights;

Ash - Retrograde Amnesia, 26
Me - Captain Jack, 29/30 (whatever that means - I'll take 29)

Andy Richardson put up Captain Jack in 2010. It is super cool but very atypitcal for the crag with sharp crimps and a flat blocked boulder crux. I'm stoked to do it as it was completly wet and subsequently chalk (beta) free when we arrived. It took me 2 attempts to figure out how to clip the 3rd draw without killing Ash or hitting the ground - basically just had to hold the sharpest hold a bit longer. Then a further attempt to figure out the crazy roof. I tried everything to avoid the kneebar but alas I succumbed, like an Ol' Seadog to the Siren's song. Eh, anyway it went next shot.

Wrap up - Awesome week away, yet it wasn't long enough. Next time will be for a month, with a rack next time.

Psyched to get to the Gramps though!!

-Grosey

Here's a short iPhone/shoe video of Capt. Jack.

Ash @ Bluestone Bay - Day 1