A Wimmera Summer.

According to the calendar, summer is nearing its final days. Farmers have completed their harvest, and the place now looks and feels like a barren dustbowl. Sweltering hot evenings of unescapable heat. The shrill of cicadas become just more background noise at night. With still a couple of weeks of warm whether to come, there is a hope that the worst of a hot summer in Victoria’s wheat belt is just a memory. (note, this inspired piece of introductory poetry was written while at work on a 38 degree summer day)

Climbing during summer out here is a game of luck. Some days are so hot that the oppressive strangle hold of the sun is all foreboding and unrelenting. Others can remind you of a perfect winters day. Blue sky, gentle breeze, and a pleasant 21^oC ambient temperature.  I’ve never been a fan of the heat. Especially climbing in the heat. The cooling attraction of the gullies, and walls hiding in the shadows however, have reinspired my faith in summer climbing. I do feel very fortunate to be able to take full advantage of summer evenings out here. After work climbing on some of the best rock and routes in the country, in the cool of the shade, on a mild summer evening, does have certain charm about it. Where climbing becomes lifestyle rather than ‘just that thing I do on the weekends’. Or maybe it becomes ‘just that thing I do after work, but before dinner’. 

On the cooler evenings, I was able to get and out climb some great routes like Unrequited, 27, Ciela, 28, and Power, Corruption and Lies, 27. I even got a run up the brilliant Skink, 18, for the first time, in the middle of a string of low 20's days. Plus a slew of other routes done all over the place with different folks.

Chris sending Unrequited on a Wednesday evening.

Chris on Ciela, Thursday afternoon.

Chilly evening afterwork climb with the boys.

Josh in Ethopia

Living out here has changed my perspective on where climbing sits in my life too. I now see a way of making the thing I love doing so much, a part of my life, without it becoming overpowering, overburdening or oversaturated.

Too hot to climb? Never mind. Wake-boarding on Green Lake with Taipan in the background.

But as goes with life, circumstances continue to evolve. As Robert Burns so eloquently put it,

"the best laid plans of mice and men often go astray"

University started up again this week, and my proposed idea of living in Nati while studying by correspondence has not come into fruition. I came out here to try and work and climb. Mission accomplished. But I came out here because I could work and climb. I got to work in a field that is where I wish to end up in after my studies. And in order to get back here in the future, full time, I need to make sure I’m fulfilling my desire to learn and educate myself as well as I can. After all, I climb because I love it, and I’m at school because I love it.

To study by correspondence for what I want to learn, would not provide me with the feeling of accomplishment. Of having got all I could from my education.

So, with summer ending, and the days getting shorter, I’ll be returning to Melbourne. For the first semester I will still be based in Nati, catching the train back and forth for 3 days in the city every week. Climbing and school occurring in harmony. Well, hopefully. Come second semester, there is a good chance I’ll be back in Melbourne until I finish the degree, with perhaps another Wimmera summer squeezed in there.

Sunset from Claires farm in Pomonal. 

-TheBigAl

Tasmania Waters

First trip of 2012.

It had been 3 years since I was last in Australia's bastard state, 3 years too long really. Both this time round and the last were both under a very similar premise. That was; as a way to get motivated to come back from injury. Both times however I have found it difficult to climb there. Probably more to do with my lack of technique than actually being fresh off the reserve's bench.

I flew down with Ash Hendy and promptly made our way to Freycinet National Park, planning on climbing at The Star Factory. A slightly overhanging orange granite wall, positioned above postcard bay. What a venue. After some awesome weather on day 1 we ended up having to bail early due to a Northerly blowing salt water all over the cliff. Amazing to witness the process of cloud formation right in front of us, but disappointing we walked an hour in only to find the rock saturated.

I had heard of an area down south near Port Arthur that could be good this time of year, if the swells weren't too high. This was confirmed by (Simon) Young Gun via text. So off we shot, hitting the Mt Brown walking track the next morning. The Paradiso was our objective, with promised overhanging dolorite right on the Tasman Sea. The climbing here was fun, sort of juggy sidepull action, and somewhat pumpy. Some of the routes up the middle were about 30m long.

We decided to climb 3 days on due to a shitty forecast, yet this proved to be more like half days due to getting to the crag around 3pm. We managed to get up a few routes all the same.

Highlights;

Ash - Retrograde Amnesia, 26
Me - Captain Jack, 29/30 (whatever that means - I'll take 29)

Andy Richardson put up Captain Jack in 2010. It is super cool but very atypitcal for the crag with sharp crimps and a flat blocked boulder crux. I'm stoked to do it as it was completly wet and subsequently chalk (beta) free when we arrived. It took me 2 attempts to figure out how to clip the 3rd draw without killing Ash or hitting the ground - basically just had to hold the sharpest hold a bit longer. Then a further attempt to figure out the crazy roof. I tried everything to avoid the kneebar but alas I succumbed, like an Ol' Seadog to the Siren's song. Eh, anyway it went next shot.

Wrap up - Awesome week away, yet it wasn't long enough. Next time will be for a month, with a rack next time.

Psyched to get to the Gramps though!!

-Grosey

Here's a short iPhone/shoe video of Capt. Jack.

Ash @ Bluestone Bay - Day 1

Sleepy Bay - View from SF Approach

The Paradiso, Mt Brown Area

Me getting a little close

Fat thing with stool up her arse.

Bring On 2012

Well its that time of the year again when people start jogging around the block, give up the booze, try to eat better or give up smoking. It is the time of new beginnings and turning the other cheek. Or is it another leaf?? You know I'm terrible with that sort of thing. We all know people who perform this almost religious ritual every year, however how many resolutions actually are maintained? Probably not many.

Another annual event that that usually ends in disappointment for most is NYE celebrations. Hype and expectation inevitably ends in early nights at home, ridiculous crowds of intoxicated heroes, or some lame house party hosted by a friend 4 times removed. For this reason Al and I decided to put on a NYE bash at Mt Arapiles. It had been 3 years since our last and about time we hit it up again. We had some expectations and we definitely had the hype (Horsham checkout chicks were talking it up), yet where others failed we totally kicked arse. As you are probably aware, we like to dress up. Not always in dresses mind you. We needed a theme. Something that would inspire some shocking outfits while promoting an inclusive feel to the party. 1980's - the decade with probably the best 'Shit to Hit' ratio regarding music and fashion became the theme. With some help from the crew, the shelter was turned into a retro 80's night club, complete with decor, lights and visual projections including Monkey Magic and Jim Henson's the Storyteller. Awesome. As a surprise Al and I decided to have a best dressed trophy awarded - it was put to the vote, and our very own Philby came away with a win. To an adoring crowd, Phil managed to do a knee slide down the concrete ramp and then do a strip show. Nice one mate, pity about your grazed up old man knees the next day.

So after a bloody awesome night of some retro hip hop, alternative and electro we welcomed 2o12 with sunrise in the wheat fields - no better way I tell you. Hell followed as we had to endure a 42 degree day in the Wimmera. Most of it was spent lying about at Al's place in Nati, then the afternoon cooling off at Horsham pool with the crew. All in all, a wicked night.

Phil, Alicia, Ash, Al and myself pre NYE. Photos - Nina Ginsberg

First sunrise of 2012

Being on leave and about 4.5 months post injury (A4 rupture) I took the opportunity to hang about for a week with Al at his new abode in Natimuk. A great week it was, living the cruisey country lifestyle. Although it was stinking hot we got some climbing, bmx riding and fishing in. Highlight was catching a rainbow trout by the tail haha gold - tasted great!!! I also spent a few days teaching Jasmin the ropes, as she'd never climbed outdoors before. It was a good way to get back into climbing, by doing some enjoyable easier routes that I had done perhaps 9 years ago. On our last day of the trip, Jaz and I meandered up the 5 pitches of The Bard grade 12. Later that afternoon Al came out and belayed me on Break and Enter on the back of Uncle Charlies. A cool fridge slapping problem, perfect for a hot summer's day. Topping out on this route was a great finish to wicked day and an awesome week. According to Al and Phil it also means I'm officially back off the bench, and an encouraging return at that.

Jasmin on The Bard traverse

Psyched for the warm-up, Spasm in a Chasm 25

As for New Year resolutions, I'm not a believer however this year I am looking forward to several things. Climbing well and injury free, roadtrips locally and abroad but I mostly look forward to hanging out with great mates and enjoying the little things in life. Happy new year everyone and crank hard.

- Grosey

The Part About Life aka The Vortex.

I was warned. ‘What ever you do, don’t get stuck in the vortex!’ they would say. Or maybe it was ‘Welcome to the vortex’. Either way, I don’t see myself as stuck…..yet. There are many though trying to keep me here. Do I swim against the immense pulling force, or just go with it and enjoy the ride?

So, by the ‘vortex’, I mean the every day attraction of life here in Natimuk. I’ve been here just over 2 weeks now and I am finding that it is sort of like Fight Club. The first couple of rules “YOU DON NOT TALK ABOUT FIGHTCLUB (Natimuk)” seem to prevent people from knowing exactly what it is or who is in it. This only becomes evident upon entrance to the club and immersion in the life. But just like Fight Club, once it has you, it’s hard to see yourself anywhere else.

My days so far involve a fairly interesting job in a soil science lab at the DPI in Horsham performing all sorts of evil, maniacal experiments in chemical weaponry. I also test soils for their phosphorous concentrations. With aircon, regular coffee breaks and a workload typical of a government run operation i.e. slow and small, and the chance for me to indulge in my fondness for chemistry, this should be a pretty good way to earn a crust over the summer.

Afternoons are spent either climbing at the mount or going over to someones’ place for dinner and socialise. It was pretty cool to head out after work last week, knock out 3 pitches in a couple of hours, and be home by 8:30pm to cook dinner and put back a couple of beers. It’s sort of overwhelming when it comes to deciding what to climb now that it’s so close. If I were to come out for a weekend, I would know before I even left Melbourne the routes I was going to do/try, and would stick to that plan. But now, with so many routes 5 minutes down the road and ample opportunities to climb them, I can’t make up my mind what to do!

I’m pretty lucky to be renting a room from Gareth Llewellin. A top notch guy from QLD, and a proper socialite I must say. Through him and Marissa, I think I’ve met most of the climbers in town in the first week! Also staying here is Douglas Hockley, which was a funny surprise because I was climbing with Douglas in Melbourne way back in 2005.

But no matter how convenient the climbing is, how social the people are here, and the fact that I am actually doing a job with a sense of purpose for once, there are still times I yearn for Melbourne. To be sitting in the back yard at the folks place having a chin wag with mum and dad. Beers with mates on Brunswick St. I miss the people. And if I think hard about it, it’s the small moments with them I miss the most. The grind of the week, the traffic, the sensory overload of the city, all cancelled out by a few hours with friends and family. It was a pretty amazing year for me. A huge turn around from the dark place I was in last year. I had some pretty special people in my life over the year, new and old. They all helped me create a happier and healthier existence for myself. Something one can never forget, or begin to pay back.

So here I sit, on the edge of the vortex. On the one hand, everyday is one of peace and calm. Great people, friendly vibe, and awesome climbing just down the road. On the other hand, my friends and family back in Melbourne. The jury is still out as to where I will land. 

Good times with Joshy before leaving Melbourne.

I miss great moments of joy like this with my mates.

Dark, moody blues rock at the Nati Cafe on a Friday night.

My humble abode.

- TheBigAl

The Part About Climbing aka Frothing Like Someone Who Has Rabies.

BUT! This is a climbing blog too, so I guess I shouldmention some climbing stuff. With the car loaded I rolled out of Sunbury headedfor southern Gramps to meet up with Arnie and Saunders and co. Arnie had beenraving about this new bouldering cave he had found and I was keen as mustard tocheck it out. However a late departure time from Melbourne and long drive around the top meantI got to the car park just as the two of them had walked out. With Arnies “pisseasy” directions I headed off in search of the cave, but ended up gettinghopelessly lost for a couple of hours. The good part about this though was thatI found another big, steep cave of solid rock and outstanding potential forsome good, hard bouldering. It was nice to finally get a win in the search fornew bouldering. I have become a little bit tired of bush bashing into chosscaves or blank walls.

 I did eventually findArnies cave getting up a couple of the problems, and the following weekendreturned with Simon, Christof, Jules and their respective families for prettyfun day. This cave is a pretty amazing feature, with long, steep roof problems,on great rock, all topping out. Perfect!

Last week I managed to finish up an old route I tried a fewyears ago called The Great Escape, 28.In a little gully around the corner from Punks, I managed to fall off a move ortwo from the top twice before snagging it. The top entails some awesomeArapiles wrestling, knee-barring and body shuffling up a bit of a corner. Notso much hard moves, but what a workout! I love those sorts of routes.

Simon and I also had a day on Phils route ‘Rhythmic Pumper’,where I pumped off twice at the crux at the last bolt, but Simon crushed it onhis 6^th shot of the day with some new beta. Top route Philby. sureto become a classic.

So what else. It was a bit hard to find partners this week. Tuesdayheaded out to a route/boulder/traverse Gareth showed me that was done by DaveJones and used by a few of the locals for training. This rising, overhungtraverse goes for about 15-18 meters slanting up at 45 degrees and slightlyoverhanging, with the ground following you up. Its probably about grade 25, anda great way to get fit on your own.

And yesterday (Thursday) I went back out there with old mateBrendan Abernathy to try some new boulders I found. In an afternoon I put up 3new problems. Spunk Bubble, V6, starts in a roof and pulls a cruxybulge to top out a good 10 meters up on a fun easy headwall. Judge Mental, V7, takes the left edge ofthis amazing steep prow, while The Lone Deranger, V8, takes a right hand line of the prow, and could possibly beharder, the shorter you are. It’s steep, wide spanning sloper slappinggreatness. The line through the middle of the prow will be proper hard, butwill be a fucking classic!

So that’s it really. I’ll just leave you with some photosfrom the last few weeks of things. It’s Friday, so it’s down to the café fordinner, beers, socialise and then climbing tomorrow!

Arnie in a rare moment tied into a rope.

Busting the first move in the roof (Yes! Roof bouldering at Arapiles) on Spunk Bubble, V6. 

The bulge crux of Spunk Bubble, V6

Brendan looking to squeeze his guts out on the 2nd ascent of Judge Mental, V7

The burly double underclings of Judge Mental, V7 

Fridge hugging sloper action on The Lone Deranger, V8.

- TheBigAl

Movin' and Shakin'

So its November. Winters done and dusted. Primo bouldering is out the window. And for me, schools out, for summer. After stringing together a couple of good months bouldering and feeling fitter, the looming end of semester assignments and exams got the better of me and low and behold I slithered away out of the light of humanity and buried myself in books. For the last say, 6 weeks, I've been hit with vicious hayfever, flu like virus and general I-can't-be-fucked-ness while grinding out the last of my school work. Happy to say however that first year is done and dusted and its back to happy days and socialising!

Big news is that I'm moving to Natimuk for the summer. I was very fortunate to get a job with the DPI Soil Science division in Horsham assisting in the lab with chemical analysis of soils. OK so that may sound as fun as paint drying to most, but to me its a pretty sweet gig after having completed only first year chemistry. So in a couple of weeks from now I'll be relocated and calling Arapiles my local crag, hiding away in the shady gullies over summer.

Joshy and I were out at Gramps too for a couple of days on the long weekend. Driving up late Monday arvo, we got all dressed up for the Halloween party at the campground. Needless to say we both got a bit wild, most likely embarrassing ourselves infront of strangers, but hey, since when do either of us give a shit about that sort of thing!

Who's up for a bit of the old ultra-violence then hey?

Arse-Pirate Will!

All kids love clowns, right?

This kid was an egg beater I think. Probably should have beaten him with eggs instead.

On a side note, I would just like to remind any of the 7 people that read this blog, to take a look at our pal Simons blog, http://blockmonster.blogspot.com/. Arnie is definitely the most prolific boulderer I know, and without him there would be a great less enthusiasm in the scene. I would single him out as my biggest inspiration in climbing. Always motivated, generous, enthusiatic, he is a bona-fide frother! Just don't challenge him to fooseball or table tennis.

So, with the temperature rising, the sun shining, the days getting longer and chicks skirts getting shorter, summer is on its way back again. Summer means stinking hot, dusty days in the campground, dogging routes in the cool of the gullies, icy beers and BBQ's, and music festivals. Ahhhhh, its festival season again......



- TheBigAl

Rhythmic Pumper

A quick little vid of my new route.