The Part About Life aka The Vortex.

I was warned. ‘What ever you do, don’t get stuck in the vortex!’ they would say. Or maybe it was ‘Welcome to the vortex’. Either way, I don’t see myself as stuck…..yet. There are many though trying to keep me here. Do I swim against the immense pulling force, or just go with it and enjoy the ride?

So, by the ‘vortex’, I mean the every day attraction of life here in Natimuk. I’ve been here just over 2 weeks now and I am finding that it is sort of like Fight Club. The first couple of rules “YOU DON NOT TALK ABOUT FIGHTCLUB (Natimuk)” seem to prevent people from knowing exactly what it is or who is in it. This only becomes evident upon entrance to the club and immersion in the life. But just like Fight Club, once it has you, it’s hard to see yourself anywhere else.

My days so far involve a fairly interesting job in a soil science lab at the DPI in Horsham performing all sorts of evil, maniacal experiments in chemical weaponry. I also test soils for their phosphorous concentrations. With aircon, regular coffee breaks and a workload typical of a government run operation i.e. slow and small, and the chance for me to indulge in my fondness for chemistry, this should be a pretty good way to earn a crust over the summer.

Afternoons are spent either climbing at the mount or going over to someones’ place for dinner and socialise. It was pretty cool to head out after work last week, knock out 3 pitches in a couple of hours, and be home by 8:30pm to cook dinner and put back a couple of beers. It’s sort of overwhelming when it comes to deciding what to climb now that it’s so close. If I were to come out for a weekend, I would know before I even left Melbourne the routes I was going to do/try, and would stick to that plan. But now, with so many routes 5 minutes down the road and ample opportunities to climb them, I can’t make up my mind what to do!

I’m pretty lucky to be renting a room from Gareth Llewellin. A top notch guy from QLD, and a proper socialite I must say. Through him and Marissa, I think I’ve met most of the climbers in town in the first week! Also staying here is Douglas Hockley, which was a funny surprise because I was climbing with Douglas in Melbourne way back in 2005.

But no matter how convenient the climbing is, how social the people are here, and the fact that I am actually doing a job with a sense of purpose for once, there are still times I yearn for Melbourne. To be sitting in the back yard at the folks place having a chin wag with mum and dad. Beers with mates on Brunswick St. I miss the people. And if I think hard about it, it’s the small moments with them I miss the most. The grind of the week, the traffic, the sensory overload of the city, all cancelled out by a few hours with friends and family. It was a pretty amazing year for me. A huge turn around from the dark place I was in last year. I had some pretty special people in my life over the year, new and old. They all helped me create a happier and healthier existence for myself. Something one can never forget, or begin to pay back.

So here I sit, on the edge of the vortex. On the one hand, everyday is one of peace and calm. Great people, friendly vibe, and awesome climbing just down the road. On the other hand, my friends and family back in Melbourne. The jury is still out as to where I will land. 

Good times with Joshy before leaving Melbourne.

I miss great moments of joy like this with my mates.

Dark, moody blues rock at the Nati Cafe on a Friday night.

My humble abode.

- TheBigAl

The Part About Climbing aka Frothing Like Someone Who Has Rabies.

BUT! This is a climbing blog too, so I guess I shouldmention some climbing stuff. With the car loaded I rolled out of Sunbury headedfor southern Gramps to meet up with Arnie and Saunders and co. Arnie had beenraving about this new bouldering cave he had found and I was keen as mustard tocheck it out. However a late departure time from Melbourne and long drive around the top meantI got to the car park just as the two of them had walked out. With Arnies “pisseasy” directions I headed off in search of the cave, but ended up gettinghopelessly lost for a couple of hours. The good part about this though was thatI found another big, steep cave of solid rock and outstanding potential forsome good, hard bouldering. It was nice to finally get a win in the search fornew bouldering. I have become a little bit tired of bush bashing into chosscaves or blank walls.

 I did eventually findArnies cave getting up a couple of the problems, and the following weekendreturned with Simon, Christof, Jules and their respective families for prettyfun day. This cave is a pretty amazing feature, with long, steep roof problems,on great rock, all topping out. Perfect!

Last week I managed to finish up an old route I tried a fewyears ago called The Great Escape, 28.In a little gully around the corner from Punks, I managed to fall off a move ortwo from the top twice before snagging it. The top entails some awesomeArapiles wrestling, knee-barring and body shuffling up a bit of a corner. Notso much hard moves, but what a workout! I love those sorts of routes.

Simon and I also had a day on Phils route ‘Rhythmic Pumper’,where I pumped off twice at the crux at the last bolt, but Simon crushed it onhis 6^th shot of the day with some new beta. Top route Philby. sureto become a classic.

So what else. It was a bit hard to find partners this week. Tuesdayheaded out to a route/boulder/traverse Gareth showed me that was done by DaveJones and used by a few of the locals for training. This rising, overhungtraverse goes for about 15-18 meters slanting up at 45 degrees and slightlyoverhanging, with the ground following you up. Its probably about grade 25, anda great way to get fit on your own.

And yesterday (Thursday) I went back out there with old mateBrendan Abernathy to try some new boulders I found. In an afternoon I put up 3new problems. Spunk Bubble, V6, starts in a roof and pulls a cruxybulge to top out a good 10 meters up on a fun easy headwall. Judge Mental, V7, takes the left edge ofthis amazing steep prow, while The Lone Deranger, V8, takes a right hand line of the prow, and could possibly beharder, the shorter you are. It’s steep, wide spanning sloper slappinggreatness. The line through the middle of the prow will be proper hard, butwill be a fucking classic!

So that’s it really. I’ll just leave you with some photosfrom the last few weeks of things. It’s Friday, so it’s down to the café fordinner, beers, socialise and then climbing tomorrow!

Arnie in a rare moment tied into a rope.

Busting the first move in the roof (Yes! Roof bouldering at Arapiles) on Spunk Bubble, V6. 

The bulge crux of Spunk Bubble, V6

Brendan looking to squeeze his guts out on the 2nd ascent of Judge Mental, V7

The burly double underclings of Judge Mental, V7 

Fridge hugging sloper action on The Lone Deranger, V8.

- TheBigAl