13 October 2009

Oktoberfest

Well not much beer in this post, sorry.

This post will be short and sweet......hopefully.

What's been happening in the world of Victoria's most laudable (or is that laughable) climbing coterie?

Heaps....

First up we've ended the winter with another bouldering trip, this time for photos for Dave and Chris' new bouldering guide book. This basically involved running around between three areas trying lots of problems in the middle grades trying to look good, something we are accustomed to. During this time, I managed the second ascent of Mexican Delight, a 4 move wonder that punches through a steep little roof. Ol' Vinny Day opened this problem a few weeks ago, giving it a V9 grade. In the same area of Anderson's, Phil did Rodeo Girl, V8. Another little roof problem which utilises to hooks and a bit of core. I was also able to use my lank to flash this problem.


Here is a shot of Al on his V6, aptly named Pebble Slab. And one of me on Mexican Delight, courtesy of Justin Power.





For more photos visit.
http://jpower.smugmug.com/Sports/Climbing/7914026_NjHcW#513344089_unQst

Or Wait for the Guidebook or next issue of Rock to come out, choice is yours.

When the weather warms up its time to hit the routes again. Last weekend was a lot of fun....mainly cause it had been so long since I'd clipped the chains on anything I'd almost forgotten how to do it. After pulling a hissy fit a few weeks ago (falling from the last moves of things cause you're stupidly pumped sucks), I managed to give ammunition to those calling me the new Greg Norman. I pretty much let go on the last section of Academia, 31 on Spurt Wall.


Fortunently I am putting those claims on the back burner for at least another week, as I got my arse up that thing on the last go of the day (most likely forever). This route is basically a boulder problem for 3 bolts worth of climbing then an easier top two thirds, and it's pretty burly. In fact when I was a mere pumper a couple of years ago when I first thought of trying it, I couldn't do more than 3 moves of the ground. Since then, I've had some time away from climbing, both in general and routes, and as a result have gotten a bit stronger. To fall off at the top because I was pumped just highlights that if you have to focus all parts of climbing to get up routes, not just your biceps. Sweet, so now that Academia is done I can move on to other things....mainly Samosa and my new projects that I bolted over winter.....Oh yeah, I've pretty much finished uni now, so hopefully when I start on road as an Ambo, I'll have some more time/funds to get away climbing even more - Psyched!!

Ok, now it's time for some gym training......catch ya soon




- Grosey

No comments:

Post a Comment