Joshy & KP hit Thailand over new year’s chasing sunshine, beach babes, buckets of booze & soft ticks. Joshy had a fairly productive trip and managed to knock over a few classics in between bouts of partying & extreme Tonsai-tummy, the highlight being a buzzer beater ascent of Jai Dum (8b/31) a couple of days before he had to leave. He also managed to knock of a bunch of other classics including Art & Sport, Phet Mak, Sex Power, Elephant and a heap more.
The red duck (KP) was also in fine form, although finding it hard to get motivated early on, he managed to get his shit together and jump on board the send train. Highlights included starting fights with crazy Norwegians’, an ascent of Art & Sport (8a+/30) and the multipitch classic Kitty Porn (7c+/28). The big fella is now hitting the Grampians for the next 4-5 weeks, before heading off to Europe for an extended trip.
It seems I may be finally escaping team injured. My climbing year started well. I had a great 10 day trip to araps with leash, staying with the Mofo's and a hoard of others. The plan was to take it pretty easy and test out the old body, do some mileage and try to start getting back into the game. Leash & I did a bunch of classic trad routes in the 16-21 bracket that I’d never done before. It reminded me how much the mount can bring you back down to Earth when your peakin off your head on something well below your limit.
After a few days I decided to jump on a few harder things. I ended up doing the classic Wackford Squeers (26) and Power Corruption & Lies (27) 2nd shot. At the end of the trip the body was feeling good and I was as psyched as I have ever been.
Me on Wackford Squeers (26)
After getting back from the mount I started training again, bouldering and running laps at the hanger. I had a few days in Sydney bouldering at a few of the gyms up there and was starting to feel as strong as I ever had. About 3 weeks back, Chris and I headed to the gramps and had a great weekend despite the 35 degree temps. We checked out the Tower, which is a really nice spot. Great rock which is remarkably similar to Taipan, and shade all day. Chris and I both did See the Light (22) and Terror of the Sea (25) before jumping on Super Mario Brothers Direct (27). A very bouldering start leads to awesome pumping on big jugs. Unfortunately we both pitched off just before the victory jugs , but we will certainly be back for the send, of what I think is one of the best 27’s in the Grampians.
Last weekend Chris & I headed away again, this time hitting Araps on Saturday so Chris could jump back on Lord of the Rings (31). He had an awesome burn, getting through to a new highpoint and making some good links, I have no doubt he will send it soon. I strolled over to Mysteries wall and flashed the absolutely fantastic Blue Eyed & Blonde (24), which must rank as one of my favourite 24’s anywhere. I also sent a very cool bouldery route to its right called Historic Events (26) 3rd shot. All in all a very fun day. The following day we headed to millennium so I could jump back on my long-time project, Nomads Sains & Indians (29). My intention was just to have a refresher on it to see where I was at fitness wise, but after warming up by putting the draws on; I sent it packing 1st shot of the day... Needless to say I was pretty psyched! I capped of my weekend by doing the nails ard’ Velocity of Time (26) putting the draws on. It was a great weekend for me, not just because I sent a few routes, but to finally feel like I’m starting to be able to climb to my potential without injury is a great feeling.
Nomads!!! :)
Looking forward to hitting Taipan and Muline over the next few weeks! Cant wait!This rad shot by Vera Warmbrumm has me psyched for muline!
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