07 June 2011

Weekend wrap-up & work wind-down

So there's a problem at the Titanic boulder called Collision Course (V9), which I have tried on a couple of previous occasions without success. Starting on a pair of miserable underclings, you have to pull on and up to a bad 2/3 finger pocket with the left hand, then dyno to a jug with the right. It's maybe, V3/4 to the top after that. It's a classic 2-move wonder in that if you can pull your ass off the ground your halfway there.

As it happens, I found myself there over the weekend trying the problem again & again and sucking majorly. Que everyone's favorite miniature pocket rocket, Timmy Le busting out the iPod and speakers with some Missy Elliot 'get ya freak on'..... Inspired by the sudden introduction of such a classic tune, I jump up and scream "I'm psyched, gona smash!!!" or something similarly lame, run and sit under the problem and pull on.... 15 seconds later I'm standing on top of the boulder wondering what the hell just happened. Who would've thought that Missy Elliot was sending music? My friend Alyssa tells me "she has that effect on everyone" and I'm left wondering, "Where have you been all my life Missy?"




Renaissance man and the original "weakest man to climb 8b" Joey-O is getting right back in the game and getting out on the rock again which is great to see. He is still putting the beers away like nobody's business then crushing the next morning just like the old days. All we need now is the Joey-O /Toby Pola Reunion tour. Over the weekend Joey managed a 2nd shot send of KP's super classic Peace Keeper (Stout 26) at Amnesty wall. Keep it up Joey. Timmy Le also opened an account on Peacekeeper putting the moves together very quickly and looking strong, while Leash made huge progress on her project Tyrants Grasp (22) doing a really good link and sussing some new beta. Watch this space for sendage news.



I also made some great progress on my Project over the weekend getting very close to the send. Leash snapped a couple of ripper Pics in the afternoon sun that I thought I would share. I reckon with a bit of Euro fitness under my belt this thing is going down when I get back.


The first moves of the crux sequence



What a finish!!! Big 1-4.5 Campus move to big flatter


Only 3.3456789 work days to go, then a lazy Saturday with my lovely and then Europe bound!! :)

Peace.
Philby

2 comments:

  1. I think you'll find that the track played was Missy Elliot "Work it"... which you did.

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