I forgot about a story. It’s a sensitive topic for me. But it’s a story in which I would like to think could save lives! Or could at least get a few laughs.
From my experience I have realised all Europeans are terrified of the snakes, spiders, sharks and crocodiles in Australia. If a survey were conducted, I believe Tourism Australia would find this is a major misconception and factor for why people don’t visit- they just don’t want to die. They have this image in their head that spiders will crawl all over their bed. Crocodiles will roll them around their bath tub. Sharks are lurking around the beach shores ready to swallow them whole. Snakes are bursting out of toilets ready to bite them in the arse.
So, what about the warnings for Australians travelling to Europe?
I was camping in Spain, Rodellar at the massive carpark for vans/motorhomes. This area is great to sleep at, but can get very busy. One night, I needed to use the ladies room. There is a vast area to find privacy; you just have to be careful where you go. It’s not a forest. There are random walls designating pathways in all directions. It’s unlikely, but someone might walk past. Then there are prickly shrubs. I don’t know why, but 90% of shrubs in Europe have thorns. So, with a few factors to consider I went for a walk. I wore my dimming headtorch and marched into a random direction away from the carpark. I jumped a few walls and walked around a few trees and bushes. Then a few more. Then, as I started to head back to where I thought was the carpark, I realised I was kind of lost. I knew the general direction of the carpark but to get there, there was a ramp. I kept coming across a prickly vine covered wall. So as far as the best route- no idea. I don’t have the best sense of direction at the best of times, but all the wall jumping and shrubbery, and most of all, darkness, left me feeling pretty foolish. The wearing of thongs and shorts weren’t helping.
Being lost was fine- eventually I knew I would make it back. A few scratches here and there didn’t bother me at all. But! When I started to hear GRUNTS! From more than one direction. And SCRUFFLING of HOOVES on NEARBY GRASS! That’s when my heart stopped. It was a typical ‘fight or flight’ response. I stood so still. My heart pounding out of my chest. Whole body shaking. Mind racing. Thinking, “which direction should you run!? How the hell are you going to climb a prickly vine covered wall in HAVIANAS! You are going to die in Spain. By a wild boar. Find a weapon!” So I found two rocks- smaller than a football. Pretty lame huh!? My idea was, if they started to charge, I would smack it right in between its eyes- knock it out! Run to safety and live to tell the tale.
I stood there, transfixed. Listening to the grunts. Then I decided I had to move. I had to get out of there. I was so close to breaking down and yelling out. Maybe Doug would realise I had been gone an unusually long time and come to the rescue? But the humiliation! So I was on a mission. Find car! I walked and walked with those two rocks for what felt like forever. I was too scared to turn around towards the grunting but not really sure if I was going in the right direction. I have no concept of how long I was gone for, but eventually I found that damned carpark.
I walked up to the Kangoo and crawled in to lie down. I found Doug playing Quiz games on my ipod. My hero. After some calming down- realising I wasn’t going to die in Spain by a wild boar, I proceeded to tell Doug my tale. I couldn’t help but notice the smirk he was trying to hide on his face. It’s stupid I know. And you can all point and laugh at my craziness! But I have several sources confirming the presence of wild bores there. Whether you are special enough to get lost or not, that’s another issue all together. Just don’t let it be you. You’ve been warned.
Dre.
P.S. I am currently in Poland. Waiting for my third flight I've booked and paid for to get out of this country. Fingers crossed everybody!
12 January 2010
07 January 2010
Half empty or Half full?
It is the first week of the year, and I feel obliged to attempt to fulfil my duties as the Captainette of Crush to complete a summary of the last three months. I have let a lot of time pass, and the difficult process of telling the story of my travels has had the snowball effect. My laziness has been largely exacerbated by the negative celcius temperatures I have been enduring living in my car. So please, show mercy.
I find myself trying to gather my thoughts on all that has happened since the last blog entry, and have been completely overwhelmed because as you may have noticed by my last entry- I don’t do ‘brief overview’ very well. But, I think this time, I have to try and compress my last three months, as much as it pains me, for the benefit of any sucker readers.
According to my withering two years out of university brain- I ended my last thesis at Ceuse, typing away in a hotel in Zurich with Mum-Hah. After ten days of eating, sleeping, reading, sightseeing and photo-snapping, I got a train back to my car in France. From there, I was on a mission to get to sunny Spain.
As Doug and I were driving towards the France/Spain border in the Alps, it was going dark, hilly and too much for our little Kangoo. Kangoo’s engine got too hot so in result we pulled over and slept among the Alps and woke to priceless views in the morning. Very “Mastercard Ad”-esk. As we started driving, it was gloomy, rainy, misty and damn cold. But Doug remained high spirited- “it’s always sunny in Spain!” he proclaimed. And as we entered the tunnel with our windscreen wipers on, and saw the “Espana” sign on the other side, straight ahead was a blue sky and shining sun! A few kms further I attempted to get a breakfast tan.
Further down the road we crossed a bridge, and I pointed and laughed in amazement. A man in uniform was standing on the bridge we had just crossed, holding a very large automatic weapon! Not much further down the road, we came to a halt by 10 police cars. After some translation problems, we were asked “where go you?” As calmly as I could with a gun a metre away from me I quavered a “Rodellar- escalar?” The police man then searched the car for possible Bask refugees we were trying to smuggle in among the sleeping bags. After failing to find anything but dirty clothes, we were waved on to escalar at Rodellar!
Rodellar is a climbing paradise- a valley of limestone caves and cliffs about an hour from Huesca. After walking around on the first day, I decided I needed a month there. I found myself standing under routes, back to the wall, looking at routes that ventured out as far horizontally as they did vertically. “Wake up abs!” was to be a common statement I would proclaim in the proceding month. After consulting some local friends and given tips from friends back home, I had a little ticklist.
Acravita (8a) was one of the first routes I wanted to ‘project’ in Las Ventanas. It’s about 45 deg overhanging and involves skipping a clip during the crux; which is a power endurance sequence finalised with a dyno. This is then topped out with some small crimpy holds that veer left, away from the anchor to the right. On the first day I got shut down, I couldn’t do all the moves. I felt so weak, sitting at every bolt. However, somehow, second go on the second day, it all came together. Woohoo.
What’s next? I had a few projects going at the same time during my month in Rodellar. My tactics were dependent on weather, time, how tired I felt, how inspired I was and belay options. In hindsight, I don’t advise this approach.
My main goal of Rodellar was to do Kings of Metal. Some have been so bold as to claim it’s the best sport route in the world. It is graded 8a+, about 35m long in length, and gets steeper as you get higher, maybe? So much so, that after lowering off, I needed a tea break to walk back to the base of the cliff. The first half is very three dimensional, following a combination of tufas. It gets a separate grade of 7c+ and ends at a bomber knee bar, which is essentially a no hands rest below a small roof. The second half of the route involves large moves on holds that aren’t that small, but just far apart. And steep. This route took me 10 goes over five climbing days. It doesn’t sound like much on reflection, but during the process it felt epic. This route is very hard and physical for me. I could only go up it twice a day, and initially I woke up sore the day after. I was tempted to give up after the first two days, but then decided- if I do just this one route this month, I would be happy. I fell very close to the top twice on the third and fourth day. Then on the fifth, came uncomfortably close to falling again, but fought my way through the pump that I am still recovering from today. The combination of ‘allez allez, venga! Come on! A muerte!” cheering from all around Ventanas, and the dread of having to climb this route again, kept me fighting.
So remember when I said I would be happy if I only did Kings of Metal? Well I lied. I tried a few more routes concurrently and following. Two main routes stand out- Gracias Fina and Espirit Rebelle.
I tried Gracias fina from my second week all the way through to my last day. It is an 8a at Pince Sans Rire, not quite as steep as Las Ventanas, but still steep and pumpy. I lost count of how many attempts I had over how many days. I have come to the conclusion that I didn’t take this route seriously enough. I came really close on my second day, so then decided I didn’t need to be ultra fresh to do this route. I left it for days where I was too tired to try Kings of Metal or my new project, Espirit Rebelle. Alas, in hindsight, I needed to be fresh. The closest I came was one hot, humid evening, third go, where I pushed through the crux, made it to the saviour undercut jug before the easy to the top bit. As I set off, my footer blew, my undercut jugs were deemed useless and I took a massive whipper from skipping clips.
Espirit Rebelle broke my heart. It is a (concensus is, soft) 8b in Las Ventanas. It follows tufas all the way through the cave, to finish up an easier cornery section to the top. It’s fun and really powerful for me. The moves are big and it’s damn steep. Initially, I tried it as a ‘training route’ because Doug was projecting it. I thought I would just get some power up and see if I could do the moves. Anyway, I could do the moves. On the third day I linked through the crux, and was doing the final moves to the no hands rest when I blew it. Damn. Then the rain came. And it brought friends. Damn again. So much rain! I was meant to leave Rodellar in two days. So I rested the next day, and walked up on my final climbing day to find it soaking wet, and dripping from at least every third hold. I had a teary, like an immature child.
As a consolation prize, I thought I could do Gracias Fina after doing El Delfin. I tried El Delfin (7c+) in my first week but at the end of the day. So on this final doom day, I went up El Delfin twice, and couldn’t work through the boulder crux at the end. Oh well. I went off to Gracias Fina, and couldn’t even do the crux. The heart wasn’t there; I had it set on Esprit Rebelle. I felt cheated and disappointed. I got so angry, and so sad, and cursed at myself a lot. My time at Rodellar felt utterly wasted. So much energy spent on routes I never completed, but should have. A cup half empty feeling. And yet, maybe it’s not so bad? In this one month I climbed my hardest route ever, a grade I could have never comprehended ever doing. I climbed some of the world’s best sport routes and onsighted some classics. I acquired some really good kneebar techniques and fitness. I met some beautifully friendly people. Was reunited with friends from Ceuse. Laughed till my stomach hurt around massive risotto cook ups. I got to watch world class climbers all around me every day, making me realise I am just a kid in a playground, still on the bottom rungs of the ladder, struggling my way to the top of a massive roller coaster ride.
The next day I woke up in my Kangoo to pouring rain. I ran to the refuge, ordered a cappuccino and a freshly baked chocolate croissant. I then sat in contentment while everyone around me ummed and ahhed over where to go, while I myself knew I would be in Kalymnos in 48 hours. Doug drove the car away from Rodellar while I sat in the passenger seat awfully close to hurling from car sickness. Thanks Rodellar!
After a day city touring around Barcelona and drinking hot chocolates, I slowly made my way to the so called ‘climbers paradise’- Kalymnos. I got a lot to say about that little island so I will begin my next entry there. I got a feeling I’ve failed at “compressing”, but if I “categorise” maybe that will do?
Till next time...
Dre.
I find myself trying to gather my thoughts on all that has happened since the last blog entry, and have been completely overwhelmed because as you may have noticed by my last entry- I don’t do ‘brief overview’ very well. But, I think this time, I have to try and compress my last three months, as much as it pains me, for the benefit of any sucker readers.
According to my withering two years out of university brain- I ended my last thesis at Ceuse, typing away in a hotel in Zurich with Mum-Hah. After ten days of eating, sleeping, reading, sightseeing and photo-snapping, I got a train back to my car in France. From there, I was on a mission to get to sunny Spain.
As Doug and I were driving towards the France/Spain border in the Alps, it was going dark, hilly and too much for our little Kangoo. Kangoo’s engine got too hot so in result we pulled over and slept among the Alps and woke to priceless views in the morning. Very “Mastercard Ad”-esk. As we started driving, it was gloomy, rainy, misty and damn cold. But Doug remained high spirited- “it’s always sunny in Spain!” he proclaimed. And as we entered the tunnel with our windscreen wipers on, and saw the “Espana” sign on the other side, straight ahead was a blue sky and shining sun! A few kms further I attempted to get a breakfast tan.
Further down the road we crossed a bridge, and I pointed and laughed in amazement. A man in uniform was standing on the bridge we had just crossed, holding a very large automatic weapon! Not much further down the road, we came to a halt by 10 police cars. After some translation problems, we were asked “where go you?” As calmly as I could with a gun a metre away from me I quavered a “Rodellar- escalar?” The police man then searched the car for possible Bask refugees we were trying to smuggle in among the sleeping bags. After failing to find anything but dirty clothes, we were waved on to escalar at Rodellar!
Rodellar is a climbing paradise- a valley of limestone caves and cliffs about an hour from Huesca. After walking around on the first day, I decided I needed a month there. I found myself standing under routes, back to the wall, looking at routes that ventured out as far horizontally as they did vertically. “Wake up abs!” was to be a common statement I would proclaim in the proceding month. After consulting some local friends and given tips from friends back home, I had a little ticklist.
Acravita (8a) was one of the first routes I wanted to ‘project’ in Las Ventanas. It’s about 45 deg overhanging and involves skipping a clip during the crux; which is a power endurance sequence finalised with a dyno. This is then topped out with some small crimpy holds that veer left, away from the anchor to the right. On the first day I got shut down, I couldn’t do all the moves. I felt so weak, sitting at every bolt. However, somehow, second go on the second day, it all came together. Woohoo.
What’s next? I had a few projects going at the same time during my month in Rodellar. My tactics were dependent on weather, time, how tired I felt, how inspired I was and belay options. In hindsight, I don’t advise this approach.
My main goal of Rodellar was to do Kings of Metal. Some have been so bold as to claim it’s the best sport route in the world. It is graded 8a+, about 35m long in length, and gets steeper as you get higher, maybe? So much so, that after lowering off, I needed a tea break to walk back to the base of the cliff. The first half is very three dimensional, following a combination of tufas. It gets a separate grade of 7c+ and ends at a bomber knee bar, which is essentially a no hands rest below a small roof. The second half of the route involves large moves on holds that aren’t that small, but just far apart. And steep. This route took me 10 goes over five climbing days. It doesn’t sound like much on reflection, but during the process it felt epic. This route is very hard and physical for me. I could only go up it twice a day, and initially I woke up sore the day after. I was tempted to give up after the first two days, but then decided- if I do just this one route this month, I would be happy. I fell very close to the top twice on the third and fourth day. Then on the fifth, came uncomfortably close to falling again, but fought my way through the pump that I am still recovering from today. The combination of ‘allez allez, venga! Come on! A muerte!” cheering from all around Ventanas, and the dread of having to climb this route again, kept me fighting.
So remember when I said I would be happy if I only did Kings of Metal? Well I lied. I tried a few more routes concurrently and following. Two main routes stand out- Gracias Fina and Espirit Rebelle.
I tried Gracias fina from my second week all the way through to my last day. It is an 8a at Pince Sans Rire, not quite as steep as Las Ventanas, but still steep and pumpy. I lost count of how many attempts I had over how many days. I have come to the conclusion that I didn’t take this route seriously enough. I came really close on my second day, so then decided I didn’t need to be ultra fresh to do this route. I left it for days where I was too tired to try Kings of Metal or my new project, Espirit Rebelle. Alas, in hindsight, I needed to be fresh. The closest I came was one hot, humid evening, third go, where I pushed through the crux, made it to the saviour undercut jug before the easy to the top bit. As I set off, my footer blew, my undercut jugs were deemed useless and I took a massive whipper from skipping clips.
Espirit Rebelle broke my heart. It is a (concensus is, soft) 8b in Las Ventanas. It follows tufas all the way through the cave, to finish up an easier cornery section to the top. It’s fun and really powerful for me. The moves are big and it’s damn steep. Initially, I tried it as a ‘training route’ because Doug was projecting it. I thought I would just get some power up and see if I could do the moves. Anyway, I could do the moves. On the third day I linked through the crux, and was doing the final moves to the no hands rest when I blew it. Damn. Then the rain came. And it brought friends. Damn again. So much rain! I was meant to leave Rodellar in two days. So I rested the next day, and walked up on my final climbing day to find it soaking wet, and dripping from at least every third hold. I had a teary, like an immature child.
As a consolation prize, I thought I could do Gracias Fina after doing El Delfin. I tried El Delfin (7c+) in my first week but at the end of the day. So on this final doom day, I went up El Delfin twice, and couldn’t work through the boulder crux at the end. Oh well. I went off to Gracias Fina, and couldn’t even do the crux. The heart wasn’t there; I had it set on Esprit Rebelle. I felt cheated and disappointed. I got so angry, and so sad, and cursed at myself a lot. My time at Rodellar felt utterly wasted. So much energy spent on routes I never completed, but should have. A cup half empty feeling. And yet, maybe it’s not so bad? In this one month I climbed my hardest route ever, a grade I could have never comprehended ever doing. I climbed some of the world’s best sport routes and onsighted some classics. I acquired some really good kneebar techniques and fitness. I met some beautifully friendly people. Was reunited with friends from Ceuse. Laughed till my stomach hurt around massive risotto cook ups. I got to watch world class climbers all around me every day, making me realise I am just a kid in a playground, still on the bottom rungs of the ladder, struggling my way to the top of a massive roller coaster ride.
The next day I woke up in my Kangoo to pouring rain. I ran to the refuge, ordered a cappuccino and a freshly baked chocolate croissant. I then sat in contentment while everyone around me ummed and ahhed over where to go, while I myself knew I would be in Kalymnos in 48 hours. Doug drove the car away from Rodellar while I sat in the passenger seat awfully close to hurling from car sickness. Thanks Rodellar!
After a day city touring around Barcelona and drinking hot chocolates, I slowly made my way to the so called ‘climbers paradise’- Kalymnos. I got a lot to say about that little island so I will begin my next entry there. I got a feeling I’ve failed at “compressing”, but if I “categorise” maybe that will do?
Till next time...
Dre.
23 December 2009
Wrap Up
Bloody hell! Where did the last couple of months go? Our lack of crushing has not been without good reasons.
So what has been happening.........in a nut shell please?
After Melbourne's crazy heatwave in early spring, the A-Team took a break from training, and started doing normal people stuff, like going out, drinking, spending money on shit we don't need. Around the same time I also had my final exams for Uni, so it was a good time to take some time off. Since then my housemates and I have been evicted from Rathdowne Street.....of course a munty eviction party was in order. The Armageddon on Rathdowne party was the highlight of the spring carnival season. Following this, Al and I both found ourselves very distracted with girls, myself not venturing out of the house for 2 weeks.....needless to say, climbing was the last thing on my mind. Recently due to losing a battle in court, worthy of Napoleon himself, well actually it was only an hour and I didn't really get sweaty or anything, I've since taken a job with an outdoor retailer. My role (only 1 month contract) was to set up a new Kathmandu store on Chapel St, followers of our blog my remember this street is to me what good writing is too teenage vampire swoon flicks, incompatible. Drop in, its great, no air conditioning, and a cupboard full of faulty products returned, and only after 10 days of open trade.
Well ok, so here's something about climbing......Al is still taking a break and Phil is fully injured again. Man, if Phil wasn't so hairy I'd wrap him in cotton wool.....oh wait, actually he's shaved his chest just the other day. Looking hot mate! Myself, well I'm actually off to Thailand on Friday night.
Thailand - the one climbing/vacation destination I'd thought I'd never visit. Couple of reasons; I don't consider myself a "tourist" in fact I hate them.....yes this made talking to Kathmandu customers an exercise in tollerance, something I have very little off for idiots. Secondly, Thailand seems to be a place where everyone goes climbing. What I mean by that is, people who climb who aren't climbers (I refer to such people not with distain but merely observation - like if I was to go surfing I wouldn't call myself a surfer -kinda thing yeah?) seem to have climbed there. Then there is a bunch of people in their own sub category - those who thing Thai fisherman pants are cool, and where them to the gym....fuck off, they look stupid, mainly cause you ain't Thai or a fisherman. The rock is limestone, and due to the humidity and the traffic (human of course) it is polished. This sounds awfully similar to a place I wish I hadn't spent much time, El Chorro in southern Spain. Not only were the grades soggy, but the place was full of English Geezer wannabes. Both El Chorro and Thailand are what I've considered 'Climbing Holiday' destinations as opposed to a climbing destination.
That said, before you all jump up and down and say, ' you are an idiot, how can you comment on a place you haven't been to?' or 'fisherman pants are cool', I'll say you're right, except the douchebag with the pants comment. Regardless of the reasons I've never gone over, I'm actually really excited about going to a "holiday climbing" spot for 3 and a half weeks. I need a holiday. I haven't been away since my Castle Hill trip in '07, with good reasons...mainly accident last year and no money. So I'm heading over with Kent "KP" Patterson, and a couple of girls Alex and Rachel from the Munt crew. Of the group I'm the only one who wasn't been there, and as of today, Wednesday I'm pretty psyched. I have spoken to mates (Philby, Patty Turner, and Timmy Le) and have got an idea of routes I wanna try. Apart from the climbing I'm just psyched on getting outta melbourne, and lounging around on the beach (this is a new concept to me - tourism shit). Anyway should be good, and i'll let you know how it goes.
Ok guys, so 2009 has been good for some, and not for others. Some projects were ticked, others still wait. Douchebags were named and shamed, internet slaging wars were fought through chockstone, facebook and some dating site I wont' mention....there were no winners. So merry Christmas, that is if you celebrate it, and Have a great New Year. 2010 will be a great year for Victorian climbing, can feel it in me bones!
Peace out guys!
- Grosey
So what has been happening.........in a nut shell please?
After Melbourne's crazy heatwave in early spring, the A-Team took a break from training, and started doing normal people stuff, like going out, drinking, spending money on shit we don't need. Around the same time I also had my final exams for Uni, so it was a good time to take some time off. Since then my housemates and I have been evicted from Rathdowne Street.....of course a munty eviction party was in order. The Armageddon on Rathdowne party was the highlight of the spring carnival season. Following this, Al and I both found ourselves very distracted with girls, myself not venturing out of the house for 2 weeks.....needless to say, climbing was the last thing on my mind. Recently due to losing a battle in court, worthy of Napoleon himself, well actually it was only an hour and I didn't really get sweaty or anything, I've since taken a job with an outdoor retailer. My role (only 1 month contract) was to set up a new Kathmandu store on Chapel St, followers of our blog my remember this street is to me what good writing is too teenage vampire swoon flicks, incompatible. Drop in, its great, no air conditioning, and a cupboard full of faulty products returned, and only after 10 days of open trade.
Well ok, so here's something about climbing......Al is still taking a break and Phil is fully injured again. Man, if Phil wasn't so hairy I'd wrap him in cotton wool.....oh wait, actually he's shaved his chest just the other day. Looking hot mate! Myself, well I'm actually off to Thailand on Friday night.
Thailand - the one climbing/vacation destination I'd thought I'd never visit. Couple of reasons; I don't consider myself a "tourist" in fact I hate them.....yes this made talking to Kathmandu customers an exercise in tollerance, something I have very little off for idiots. Secondly, Thailand seems to be a place where everyone goes climbing. What I mean by that is, people who climb who aren't climbers (I refer to such people not with distain but merely observation - like if I was to go surfing I wouldn't call myself a surfer -kinda thing yeah?) seem to have climbed there. Then there is a bunch of people in their own sub category - those who thing Thai fisherman pants are cool, and where them to the gym....fuck off, they look stupid, mainly cause you ain't Thai or a fisherman. The rock is limestone, and due to the humidity and the traffic (human of course) it is polished. This sounds awfully similar to a place I wish I hadn't spent much time, El Chorro in southern Spain. Not only were the grades soggy, but the place was full of English Geezer wannabes. Both El Chorro and Thailand are what I've considered 'Climbing Holiday' destinations as opposed to a climbing destination.
That said, before you all jump up and down and say, ' you are an idiot, how can you comment on a place you haven't been to?' or 'fisherman pants are cool', I'll say you're right, except the douchebag with the pants comment. Regardless of the reasons I've never gone over, I'm actually really excited about going to a "holiday climbing" spot for 3 and a half weeks. I need a holiday. I haven't been away since my Castle Hill trip in '07, with good reasons...mainly accident last year and no money. So I'm heading over with Kent "KP" Patterson, and a couple of girls Alex and Rachel from the Munt crew. Of the group I'm the only one who wasn't been there, and as of today, Wednesday I'm pretty psyched. I have spoken to mates (Philby, Patty Turner, and Timmy Le) and have got an idea of routes I wanna try. Apart from the climbing I'm just psyched on getting outta melbourne, and lounging around on the beach (this is a new concept to me - tourism shit). Anyway should be good, and i'll let you know how it goes.
Ok guys, so 2009 has been good for some, and not for others. Some projects were ticked, others still wait. Douchebags were named and shamed, internet slaging wars were fought through chockstone, facebook and some dating site I wont' mention....there were no winners. So merry Christmas, that is if you celebrate it, and Have a great New Year. 2010 will be a great year for Victorian climbing, can feel it in me bones!
Peace out guys!
- Grosey
12 November 2009
Where did Spring Go?
Well again I haven't be very active on our bloggy log.
Ok, it has come to my attention that Victoria has been denied one of our seasons. Spring is no longer, or better still, never was. What is the deal with that? One week of fine weather does not constitute a season. Wet winter now heatwave with Horsham topping the 40 degree mark already. Normally I would still head out and have a crack....last summer Nick Sutter and I were out climbing on the infamous 'Black Saturday'...of course had we known it was going to be that bad we'd probably stayed home. That said, I'm now over it....perhaps its the heat and I'm just not used to it. It could also have something to do with Uni continuing to shaft me like Lex Steele, with placements spread all over the state and over a time period double what was originally put. Or maybe its cause we're getting evicted and I have to move out in the next couple of days.
Well enough bitching like I have wet panties...Good news I'm off to Thailand. Never thought I'd go over there, just seems like a tourist climbing destination somewhat like El Chorro in Spain, which was good for a day and only in any area that was 40 mins drive from town, Desplomilandia (spelling??). It was a spur of the moment decision and I'm sure as with most of my impulsive choices this will work out to be awesome. I'm heading over with Kent 'KP' Patterson, and some of Team Munt. A few weeks of climbing and lying on the beach, and a week of partying hard (not full moon but some sweet Psytrance party on Koh Tao) will be good for me before starting my real job at the end of January. Sick, I'm psyched.
Ok, well I'm going to get back to packing and I guess sunbaking, as they're the only useful/useless things I can do in this heat.
- Grosey
Ok, it has come to my attention that Victoria has been denied one of our seasons. Spring is no longer, or better still, never was. What is the deal with that? One week of fine weather does not constitute a season. Wet winter now heatwave with Horsham topping the 40 degree mark already. Normally I would still head out and have a crack....last summer Nick Sutter and I were out climbing on the infamous 'Black Saturday'...of course had we known it was going to be that bad we'd probably stayed home. That said, I'm now over it....perhaps its the heat and I'm just not used to it. It could also have something to do with Uni continuing to shaft me like Lex Steele, with placements spread all over the state and over a time period double what was originally put. Or maybe its cause we're getting evicted and I have to move out in the next couple of days.
Well enough bitching like I have wet panties...Good news I'm off to Thailand. Never thought I'd go over there, just seems like a tourist climbing destination somewhat like El Chorro in Spain, which was good for a day and only in any area that was 40 mins drive from town, Desplomilandia (spelling??). It was a spur of the moment decision and I'm sure as with most of my impulsive choices this will work out to be awesome. I'm heading over with Kent 'KP' Patterson, and some of Team Munt. A few weeks of climbing and lying on the beach, and a week of partying hard (not full moon but some sweet Psytrance party on Koh Tao) will be good for me before starting my real job at the end of January. Sick, I'm psyched.
Ok, well I'm going to get back to packing and I guess sunbaking, as they're the only useful/useless things I can do in this heat.
- Grosey
20 October 2009
Sick again....
So why am I sitting here on a Tuesday when I should be off at the daily grind of work? I'm sick, thats why. I hate this feeling. This is my second week off training. I decided to take 2 weeks off to rest my body and renew some motivation. I was feeling broken and exhausted, work was slamming me, and I'd not had a weekend at home resting for quite a while. So 2 weeks chilling, soothing sore muscles was going to be the plan. All I want to do now is get back in the gym to train and get fit for routes. Finger still feels a bit iffy, but it should be fine.
But a big weekend out with mates has meant I've pulled up rather shit, I think its the flu. Damn! So after I could barely drag my sorry ass from bed at 4am this morning, I called in sick and have speant the majority of the day in my room watching TV episodes and trawling climbing sites.
Which is why I'm posting this video. I came across it in my time wasting, and thought it was great. It goes for about 26 minutes, but I found it heaps motivating. Hopefully it gets some of you guys out there a bit psyched too. Enjoy.
Al
But a big weekend out with mates has meant I've pulled up rather shit, I think its the flu. Damn! So after I could barely drag my sorry ass from bed at 4am this morning, I called in sick and have speant the majority of the day in my room watching TV episodes and trawling climbing sites.
Which is why I'm posting this video. I came across it in my time wasting, and thought it was great. It goes for about 26 minutes, but I found it heaps motivating. Hopefully it gets some of you guys out there a bit psyched too. Enjoy.
Obsession from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.
Al
13 October 2009
Oktoberfest
Well not much beer in this post, sorry.
This post will be short and sweet......hopefully.
What's been happening in the world of Victoria's most laudable (or is that laughable) climbing coterie?
Heaps....
First up we've ended the winter with another bouldering trip, this time for photos for Dave and Chris' new bouldering guide book. This basically involved running around between three areas trying lots of problems in the middle grades trying to look good, something we are accustomed to. During this time, I managed the second ascent of Mexican Delight, a 4 move wonder that punches through a steep little roof. Ol' Vinny Day opened this problem a few weeks ago, giving it a V9 grade. In the same area of Anderson's, Phil did Rodeo Girl, V8. Another little roof problem which utilises to hooks and a bit of core. I was also able to use my lank to flash this problem.
Here is a shot of Al on his V6, aptly named Pebble Slab. And one of me on Mexican Delight, courtesy of Justin Power.
For more photos visit.
http://jpower.smugmug.com/Sports/Climbing/7914026_NjHcW#513344089_unQst
Or Wait for the Guidebook or next issue of Rock to come out, choice is yours.
When the weather warms up its time to hit the routes again. Last weekend was a lot of fun....mainly cause it had been so long since I'd clipped the chains on anything I'd almost forgotten how to do it. After pulling a hissy fit a few weeks ago (falling from the last moves of things cause you're stupidly pumped sucks), I managed to give ammunition to those calling me the new Greg Norman. I pretty much let go on the last section of Academia, 31 on Spurt Wall.
Fortunently I am putting those claims on the back burner for at least another week, as I got my arse up that thing on the last go of the day (most likely forever). This route is basically a boulder problem for 3 bolts worth of climbing then an easier top two thirds, and it's pretty burly. In fact when I was a mere pumper a couple of years ago when I first thought of trying it, I couldn't do more than 3 moves of the ground. Since then, I've had some time away from climbing, both in general and routes, and as a result have gotten a bit stronger. To fall off at the top because I was pumped just highlights that if you have to focus all parts of climbing to get up routes, not just your biceps. Sweet, so now that Academia is done I can move on to other things....mainly Samosa and my new projects that I bolted over winter.....Oh yeah, I've pretty much finished uni now, so hopefully when I start on road as an Ambo, I'll have some more time/funds to get away climbing even more - Psyched!!
Ok, now it's time for some gym training......catch ya soon
- Grosey
This post will be short and sweet......hopefully.
What's been happening in the world of Victoria's most laudable (or is that laughable) climbing coterie?
Heaps....
First up we've ended the winter with another bouldering trip, this time for photos for Dave and Chris' new bouldering guide book. This basically involved running around between three areas trying lots of problems in the middle grades trying to look good, something we are accustomed to. During this time, I managed the second ascent of Mexican Delight, a 4 move wonder that punches through a steep little roof. Ol' Vinny Day opened this problem a few weeks ago, giving it a V9 grade. In the same area of Anderson's, Phil did Rodeo Girl, V8. Another little roof problem which utilises to hooks and a bit of core. I was also able to use my lank to flash this problem.
Here is a shot of Al on his V6, aptly named Pebble Slab. And one of me on Mexican Delight, courtesy of Justin Power.
For more photos visit.
http://jpower.smugmug.com/Sports/Climbing/7914026_NjHcW#513344089_unQst
Or Wait for the Guidebook or next issue of Rock to come out, choice is yours.
When the weather warms up its time to hit the routes again. Last weekend was a lot of fun....mainly cause it had been so long since I'd clipped the chains on anything I'd almost forgotten how to do it. After pulling a hissy fit a few weeks ago (falling from the last moves of things cause you're stupidly pumped sucks), I managed to give ammunition to those calling me the new Greg Norman. I pretty much let go on the last section of Academia, 31 on Spurt Wall.
Fortunently I am putting those claims on the back burner for at least another week, as I got my arse up that thing on the last go of the day (most likely forever). This route is basically a boulder problem for 3 bolts worth of climbing then an easier top two thirds, and it's pretty burly. In fact when I was a mere pumper a couple of years ago when I first thought of trying it, I couldn't do more than 3 moves of the ground. Since then, I've had some time away from climbing, both in general and routes, and as a result have gotten a bit stronger. To fall off at the top because I was pumped just highlights that if you have to focus all parts of climbing to get up routes, not just your biceps. Sweet, so now that Academia is done I can move on to other things....mainly Samosa and my new projects that I bolted over winter.....Oh yeah, I've pretty much finished uni now, so hopefully when I start on road as an Ambo, I'll have some more time/funds to get away climbing even more - Psyched!!Ok, now it's time for some gym training......catch ya soon
- Grosey
05 October 2009
The Eagles Nest video finally up!!!
So I finally got the footage off Omar and put it up on You Tube. Thanks to everyone there on the day. I did this problem back in July. Still awaits a second ascent. Any takers? Put your hand up if you like mingn' crimps!
We had another successful weekend away bouldering and climbing too, but I'll let Phil and Joshy upload their photos and post something this time.
Enjoy - Al
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